The Ultimate Guide to Apparel Manufacturing: From Screen Printing Blanks to Custom Cut-and-Sew Production

Apparel manufacturing is where ideas meet execution—transforming sketches and designs into physical products. Whether you’re a new brand working with blanks or an established label creating fully custom cut-and-sew garments, understanding the production process is critical to scaling efficiently while maintaining quality and brand identity.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through each manufacturing method, their benefits, and the actionable steps to get it right.

1. Understanding Apparel Manufacturing Options

Screen Printing on Blanks

This approach involves sourcing pre-made blank garments (like t-shirts or hoodies) and adding custom graphics, branding, or embellishments through screen printing, embroidery, or specialty techniques.

• Best For: Startups, limited-edition collections, quick turnaround projects, and brands with lower budgets.

• Why It Works: Lower costs, simpler logistics, and faster production.

Example: A new streetwear brand sources oversized blanks from Made Blanks, applies puff-printed logos, and launches a small collection with low MOQs.

Custom Cut-and-Sew Production

This involves creating garments from scratch—cutting fabrics, sewing components, and finishing every detail based on your specifications.

• Best For: Brands focused on premium quality, signature styles, and unique fits.

• Why It Works: Complete creative control, unique silhouettes, and elevated product differentiation.

When to Transition: If you’ve outgrown blanks or want to create proprietary designs, it’s time to move into cut-and-sew.

2. Screen Printing on Blanks: Getting Started

Sourcing Blanks

The quality and style of your blanks directly affect the end product.

1. Standard Blanks: Reliable and affordable options like:

   • Gildan: Basics perfect for price-sensitive runs.

   • Bella + Canvas: Higher-quality blanks with softer fabrics.

1. Premium Blanks for Niche Markets:

1. Made Blanks: Trendy fits, oversized silhouettes, and unique garment washes.

2. Cotton Collective: Organic fabrics and minimal finishes for premium basics.

3. Maison Empty: Avant-garde shapes and specialty textiles for designer brands.

Tip: Always order sample packs to test the blanks for quality, fit, and wash retention.

Printing Techniques to Elevate Your Blanks

1. Screen Printing: Best for bold, high-volume designs. Affordable and versatile for large runs.

2. Embroidery: Adds depth and a premium feel. Ideal for logos, small graphics, or minimalistic branding.

3. Specialty Finishes:

   • Puff Prints: Raised ink for tactile effects.

   • High-Density Prints: Creates sharp, textured visuals.

   • Metallic Inks: Shiny accents that grab attention.

Production Insight: Combine techniques (e.g., puff prints + embroidery) to make even blank-based designs feel premium.

Lead Times and MOQs

• Standard Blanks: 4–6 weeks, MOQ of 144 units.

• Premium Blanks: Lead times vary based on availability and finish customization.

3. Custom Cut-and-Sew Manufacturing: The Full Process

Step 1: Developing Custom Silhouettes

Cut-and-sew gives you full control over every aspect of a garment, including:

• Proportions and fit: Slim, oversized, boxy.

• Fabric selection: Lightweight jersey, heavyweight fleece, textured knits.

• Design details: Custom collars, unique seam placements, or specialty trims.

Example: A hoodie collection with signature panel stitching, heavyweight French terry, and oversized fits sets your brand apart.

Step 2: Using CAD Designs

Computer-Aided Design (CAD) is the digital blueprint for your garment:

• Scalable, layered sketches for manufacturers.

• Precise annotations for fabric, trims, and construction details.

Why It Matters: CAD reduces errors, speeds up revisions, and ensures clarity when communicating with factories.

Step 3: Creating the Tech Pack

Tech packs act as your production playbook. Include:

• High-resolution CAD illustrations (front, back, and side views).

• Measurement charts for all sizes with grading.

• Fabric specifications: GSM, fiber content, stretch percentage.

• Trim details: Labels, zippers, hardware, and thread colors.

• Print and embellishment placements with exact dimensions.

Pro Tip: Always align your tech packs with pre-production samples (PP samples) to finalize specifications.

Step 4: Lead Times and MOQs

• Production Timelines: 8–12 weeks for cut-and-sew production.

• MOQs: Start at 600–1200 units. Add 4–6 weeks for custom fabric development.

4. Fabric and Trim Selection: Balancing Quality and Aesthetics

Choosing the right materials enhances your product’s quality and appeal:

Fabrics:

• Premium jersey for t-shirts (200–220 GSM).

• Heavyweight fleece for hoodies (300+ GSM).

• Sustainable options like organic cotton or recycled poly blends.

Trims:

1. Custom woven labels.

2. Branded zipper pulls and hardware.

3. Embroidered or stitched patches for elevated detailing.

5. Quality Control at Every Stage

Consistent quality separates top-tier brands from the rest. Implement checks at critical points:

1. Pre-Production Samples (PP): Finalize all design details before bulk production.

2. Production Checkpoints: Inspect products at key stages to prevent inconsistencies.

3. Top-of-Production Samples (TOP): Review final samples before full shipment approval.

Tip: Use a third-party QC inspector for added oversight, especially with overseas factories.

6. Packaging and Presentation

Your packaging reflects your brand’s attention to detail:

• Custom polybags with branded logos.

• Hang tags that communicate brand identity.

• Compliant packaging for retail and e-commerce standards.

Example: A streetwear brand pairs garment-dyed tees with custom tissue paper and logo-stamped polybags for a premium unboxing experience.

7. Common Manufacturing Pitfalls (and How to Avoid Them)

1. Incomplete Tech Packs: Leads to miscommunication and production errors.

2. Last-Minute Design Changes: Disrupt timelines and increase costs.

3. Overlooking Samples: Ignoring PP or TOP samples risks mass production inconsistencies.

Solution: Document every change and communicate consistently with your manufacturing partner.

8. Partnering with the Right Manufacturing Team

Choosing the right partner ensures long-term success:

• Vet factories for expertise, reliability, and capacity.

• Start with small test runs to assess quality and timelines.

• Establish regular check-ins for updates and troubleshooting.

Tip: Build long-term relationships with manufacturers to improve consistency and scale efficiently.

Final Thoughts: Streamline Your Production with Confidence

Whether you’re printing on blanks or diving into cut-and-sew production, understanding your manufacturing options empowers your brand to grow efficiently without sacrificing quality. With CAD designs, detailed tech packs, and strategic production partnerships, you can confidently bring your creative vision to life.

At Hunter Harms, we guide brands through every stage of the process—from sourcing premium blanks to managing custom cut-and-sew collections. Ready to scale your production with precision? Let’s create something exceptional together.